Sunday, November 4, 2012

Review of ORIS Aquis Maldives Limited Edition Automatic Diver


Model # 01 643 7654 7185
 
Brand/Model:  ORIS Aquis Maldives LE (limited edition of 2000 pieces)
Movement:  Swiss automatic
Material:  titanium case and bracelet
Complications:  date display
Price:  MSRP: $2,800 USD, often discounted


Plenty of photos follow the review.  Click on the pictures to enlarge.

 
Despite having four ORIS watches in my collection, this is the first ORIS I have the pleasure to review on this blog.  ORIS is a long-standing Swiss watch company (since 1904) that makes watches exclusively with automatic movements.  They tend to offer no-nonsense designs (although they do have some more fashion-oriented pieces as well) with high quality construction and pricing that puts them on the lower end of the automatic Swiss watch spectrum, which is a good thing.  Value is always a virtue, especially in an automatic Swiss watch.

ORIS has taken to producing a variety of Limited Edition (LE) watches as of late and this dive watch, from their Aquis Series, has been designed by ORIS to help save the Maldives atolls in the Indian Ocean. 

The Maldives consist of 1,190 islands spread over 90,000 square kilometers.  Known as a ‘treasure trove of marine life’ that features a variety of different environments including sea grass beds, mangroves, swamps and coral reefs in addition to a wide array of marine animals, the Maldives are an important part of the Indian Ocean’s ecosystem.

ORIS is also supporting the non-profit group Bluepeace, by donating funds to help this group implement programs to help conserve the Maldives.

The Aquis Series is one of ORIS’ newest lines of dive watches and builds upon their classic and well-regarded TT1 divers of the past ten years or so.  The Aquis Maldives is loaded with premium features and quality construction that puts it quite near the Omega Seamaster Pro in overall content, more on this in a bit.

The Maldives starts with a beautifully finished multi-piece titanium case that is brushed and polished.  I love when watch companies polish titanium, it looks superb with a light grey tint, but with a mirror finish just like stainless steel. 

The Maldives measures 42.9mm without the crown protector or signed screwdown crown, 46.9mm crown inclusive.  Like all modern ORIS divers, the Maldives features downward sloping integrated lugs, something I usually eschew in any watch design because they never seem to fit properly, but in the case of ORIS, their integrated lug designs fit great and are very comfortable.  The lugs are about 26mm wide as measured from the outside.  You are stuck with having to use ORIS rubber straps for this watch if you don’t like the bracelet, but if you’re getting ready to purchase a Maldives or other Aquis Series watch, you are probably comfortable in dealing with the integrated lugs.

Case thickness is 13.6mm.  The caseback screws down and shows a color Maldives logo of a Manta Ray, specially developed by ORIS for this watch.  The logo is under a crystal (presumably mineral) that fits flush with the rest of the caseback.  The caseback itself screws flush with the case, giving a nice smooth appearance to the watch and adds to the comfort of wearing.  Fit and finish on this watch is superb.

The crown is signed, fairly large and nicely knurled for easy grip.  The crown is surrounded by a crown guard that is screwed onto the case on either side of the crown and which fits flush with the case side and back for a clean look.  A helium escape valve (HEV) is located on the left side of the case in the center.

The Maldives color combination is rather unique, with a dark blue dial and ceramic bezel and orange colored markers and hands.  To me, the dark blue has a bit of grey in it, others have said they seen some green in the blue.  Regardless of how you see the colors, don’t let them scare you off from a great watch.  The color combo works and the look of the dial and bezel is fantastic.

The orange markers (somewhat of a faded shade of orange, it’s definitely not neon or ‘dayglo’) are luminous and applied to the dial with silver edges on each marker.  Small white minute marks are between each five minute marker.

The hour and minute hands are silver with the orange inset lume and the subseconds dial at the 9 position has a long seconds hand that is orange on one side and silver on the other.  ORIS makes the seconds hand long so you can more easily see that the watch is indeed running. 

Having a sub seconds dial on a dive watch is somewhat unique and helps to give the Maldives a personality of its own.  The sub seconds dial itself is rimmed in silver with fine silver markers at each five second mark.  It’s subdued and functional at the same time.

A white on black quickset date is located at the 3 position, with a white frame around the date window that makes it easier to read.  Fairly minimal dial printing consists of ‘ORIS’ and ‘automatic’ under the 12 marker and ‘pressure resistant’ and ‘30BAR/300M’ above the 6 marker.  Interesting to note that ORIS uses a BAR pressure designation in addition to the depth in meters.  So obviously, the Maldives is factory rated for 300 meters of water resistance or 30 BAR of pressure.

The dial is topped with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal that is slightly domed and fits flush with the inner edge of the ceramic bezel.

And speaking of the bezel, it’s a 120-click unidirectional style with a dark blue ceramic insert with black non-luminous arabics and markers on it.  The feel and quality of the bezel is first-rate, with nicely crafted knurls on the edge to grip as you rotate it.  No backlash was noted on the bezel.

An orange lume pip is at the 12 position.  For a serious dive watch, it’s not very practical to have no part of the bezel other than the lume pip be luminous, but on the other hand, the black inset markings look great and don’t scream out at you when you wear the watch.  If they were luminous and painted orange, the look would be overpowering.

While on the subject of lume, I was pleasantly surprised by the quality and color of the Superluminova ORIS used on the Maldives.  ORIS calls the lume ‘dark orange’ but as stated previously, in daylight, the lume color looks more like a faded orange to me.  When illuminated in the dark, the lume is a super cool yellowish shade, almost an incandescent yellow, easy to see, bright and very sharp looking.  Nice job!

Inside the Maldives is the ORIS Cal. 643 automatic movement, which is a base ETA 2836-2 running at 28,800 vph with a jewel count of 27.  The movement hacks and manually winds and performance has been good, with a power reserve of 41-1/2 hours during testing and a 24-hour accuracy of +7 seconds.  Since there’s no display back on the Maldives, I would hope this movement still sports the famed ORIS red rotor, but I won’t know until years down the line and I watch my watchmaker crack the back to expose the movement.  For argument’s sake, let’s assume the rotor is red.

The bracelet on the Maldives is another thing of beauty.  Made of solid link titanium with polished outer links and brushed inner links, it looks great and is comfortable to wear.  The links have beveled edges on them, which gives the bracelet a modern look without being trendy.  A subtle but interesting detail.

The bracelet is 25.3mm wide at the integrated lugs of the case and tapers to 19.9mm at the clasp.  Screw pins secure the links together and sizing and adjustment of the bracelet was easy.

The clasp is signed, with a pushbutton closure that actuates two pins that securely lock over the machined deployant.  It’s not just a friction fit, but a real positive locking device.  A machined dive extension pops out from the rear of the clasp.  The clasp also has three micro-adjustment holes.  In keeping with the rest of the watch, the quality of the clasp, deployant and bracelet is top-notch.

Presentation is a large black outer box with separate lid and a nice zippered inner box that could easily be used as a travel pouch of sorts.  The inner box is rigid but constructed of somewhat flexible vinyl covered plastic.  A separate nook in the outer box houses the instruction manual and special insert talking about the Maldives islands and the Maldives watch itself.  The manual and warranty information is placed in a hardcover binder.

The instruction manual is quite comprehensive and detailed, which is a nice surprise in this day and age of minimal documentation or ‘find it online’ thinking.  The manual is of course in various languages, but the English portion is 24 pages in length, with accompanying photos to describe various features.  While universal for other ORIS models, the manual is still quite complete and useful.

Another interesting aside about the manual, there is a ‘proof of ownership’ page that has room for three owner’s names.  This is the first time I have seen a watch company acknowledge the fact that a high-end watch doesn’t always remain with the first purchaser and said watch is sometimes sold off.  Kudos to ORIS for being cognizant of this potential.

Overall, the ORIS Aquis Maldives is a beautiful, functional, well-made watch.  I have been telling many of my WIS friends that I believe ORIS has really stepped up their game as of late.  While I still love my ORIS TT1 diver and think it’s a good quality watch, the Maldives just takes what they were doing and adds to it, with superb fit and finish, high-end features and unique looks.

I said earlier that the Maldives, in my opinion, can go head-to-head with an Omega Seamaster Pro.  I have a new ceramic bezel Seamaster and in side-by-side comparisons, the ORIS is the equal of the Seamaster.  The only place where the Omega wins is in the co-axial COSC movement, but is that really worth a price that is 60-percent higher? (based on MSRPs of $2,800 USD for the ORIS and $4,400 USD for the Omega).  And remember, the ORIS is titanium, the Omega is stainless steel. 

I truly love both watches, but ORIS could certainly put a COSC movement in the Maldives (or other Aquis models) and the cost advantage compared to Omega would still be strongly in ORIS’ favor.

As it stands, the Maldives is an exceptional watch is all respects and a strong value to boot.  Since there are only 2000 of these in existence, grab one while you can, you will not be disappointed!

Pros: lightweight titanium construction, superb fit and finish, great lume, ceramic bezel, unique looks, lightweight titanium construction, Swiss origin through and through 
 
Cons:  integrated bracelet limits strap choices, no lume on bezel markers a disadvantage for serious divers, some people may prefer stainless steel construction
 
Verdict:  outstanding in nearly all respects, ORIS ups its game and produces a fantastic dive watch that can still be had for a relative bargain.  The Maldives is hard to beat.

 
Thanks for reading and enjoy the pictures.
 
Excelsior!
 
-Marc



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