Model # 01 643 7654
7185
Brand/Model: ORIS Aquis Maldives LE (limited edition of 2000 pieces)
Movement: Swiss automatic
Material: titanium case and bracelet
Complications: date display
Price: MSRP: $2,800 USD, often discounted
Brand/Model: ORIS Aquis Maldives LE (limited edition of 2000 pieces)
Movement: Swiss automatic
Material: titanium case and bracelet
Complications: date display
Price: MSRP: $2,800 USD, often discounted
Plenty of photos follow the review. Click on the pictures to enlarge.
Despite having four ORIS watches in my collection, this is the first ORIS I have the pleasure to review on this blog. ORIS is a long-standing Swiss watch company (since 1904) that makes watches exclusively with automatic movements. They tend to offer no-nonsense designs (although they do have some more fashion-oriented pieces as well) with high quality construction and pricing that puts them on the lower end of the automatic Swiss watch spectrum, which is a good thing. Value is always a virtue, especially in an automatic Swiss watch.
ORIS
has taken to producing a variety of Limited Edition (LE) watches as of late and
this dive watch, from their Aquis Series, has been designed by ORIS to help
save the Maldives atolls in the Indian Ocean.
The
Maldives consist of 1,190 islands spread over 90,000 square kilometers. Known as a ‘treasure trove of marine life’
that features a variety of different environments including sea grass beds,
mangroves, swamps and coral reefs in addition to a wide array of marine
animals, the Maldives are an important part of the Indian Ocean’s ecosystem.
ORIS
is also supporting the non-profit group Bluepeace, by donating funds to help
this group implement programs to help conserve the Maldives.
The
Aquis Series is one of ORIS’ newest lines of dive watches and builds upon their
classic and well-regarded TT1 divers of the past ten years or so. The Aquis Maldives is loaded with premium
features and quality construction that puts it quite near the Omega Seamaster
Pro in overall content, more on this in a bit.
The
Maldives starts with a beautifully finished multi-piece titanium case that is
brushed and polished. I love when watch
companies polish titanium, it looks superb with a light grey tint, but with a
mirror finish just like stainless steel.
The
Maldives measures 42.9mm without the crown protector or signed screwdown crown,
46.9mm crown inclusive. Like all modern
ORIS divers, the Maldives features downward sloping integrated lugs, something
I usually eschew in any watch design because they never seem to fit properly,
but in the case of ORIS, their integrated lug designs fit great and are very
comfortable. The lugs are about 26mm
wide as measured from the outside. You
are stuck with having to use ORIS rubber straps for this watch if you don’t
like the bracelet, but if you’re getting ready to purchase a Maldives or other
Aquis Series watch, you are probably comfortable in dealing with the integrated
lugs.
Case
thickness is 13.6mm. The caseback screws
down and shows a color Maldives logo of a Manta Ray, specially developed by
ORIS for this watch. The logo is under a
crystal (presumably mineral) that fits flush with the rest of the
caseback. The caseback itself screws
flush with the case, giving a nice smooth appearance to the watch and adds to
the comfort of wearing. Fit and finish
on this watch is superb.
The
crown is signed, fairly large and nicely knurled for easy grip. The crown is surrounded by a crown guard that
is screwed onto the case on either side of the crown and which fits flush with
the case side and back for a clean look.
A helium escape valve (HEV) is located on the left side of the case in
the center.
The
Maldives color combination is rather unique, with a dark blue dial and ceramic
bezel and orange colored markers and hands.
To me, the dark blue has a bit of grey in it, others have said they seen
some green in the blue. Regardless of
how you see the colors, don’t let them scare you off from a great watch. The color combo works and the look of the
dial and bezel is fantastic.
The
orange markers (somewhat of a faded shade of orange, it’s definitely not neon
or ‘dayglo’) are luminous and applied to the dial with silver edges on each
marker. Small white minute marks are
between each five minute marker.
The
hour and minute hands are silver with the orange inset lume and the subseconds
dial at the 9 position has a long seconds hand that is orange on one side and
silver on the other. ORIS makes the
seconds hand long so you can more easily see that the watch is indeed
running.
Having
a sub seconds dial on a dive watch is somewhat unique and helps to give the
Maldives a personality of its own. The
sub seconds dial itself is rimmed in silver with fine silver markers at each
five second mark. It’s subdued and
functional at the same time.
A
white on black quickset date is located at the 3 position, with a white frame
around the date window that makes it easier to read. Fairly minimal dial printing consists of
‘ORIS’ and ‘automatic’ under the 12 marker and ‘pressure resistant’ and
‘30BAR/300M’ above the 6 marker.
Interesting to note that ORIS uses a BAR pressure designation in
addition to the depth in meters. So
obviously, the Maldives is factory rated for 300 meters of water resistance or
30 BAR of pressure.
The
dial is topped with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal that is slightly domed
and fits flush with the inner edge of the ceramic bezel.
And
speaking of the bezel, it’s a 120-click unidirectional style with a dark blue
ceramic insert with black non-luminous arabics and markers on it. The feel and quality of the bezel is
first-rate, with nicely crafted knurls on the edge to grip as you rotate it. No backlash was noted on the bezel.
An
orange lume pip is at the 12 position.
For a serious dive watch, it’s not very practical to have no part of the
bezel other than the lume pip be luminous, but on the other hand, the black
inset markings look great and don’t scream out at you when you wear the
watch. If they were luminous and painted
orange, the look would be overpowering.
While
on the subject of lume, I was pleasantly surprised by the quality and color of
the Superluminova ORIS used on the Maldives.
ORIS calls the lume ‘dark orange’ but as stated previously, in daylight,
the lume color looks more like a faded orange to me. When illuminated in the dark, the lume is a
super cool yellowish shade, almost an incandescent yellow, easy to see, bright
and very sharp looking. Nice job!
Inside
the Maldives is the ORIS Cal. 643 automatic movement, which is a base ETA
2836-2 running at 28,800 vph with a jewel count of 27. The movement hacks and manually winds and
performance has been good, with a power reserve of 41-1/2 hours during testing
and a 24-hour accuracy of +7 seconds.
Since there’s no display back on the Maldives, I would hope this
movement still sports the famed ORIS red rotor, but I won’t know until years
down the line and I watch my watchmaker crack the back to expose the
movement. For argument’s sake, let’s
assume the rotor is red.
The
bracelet on the Maldives is another thing of beauty. Made of solid link titanium with polished
outer links and brushed inner links, it looks great and is comfortable to
wear. The links have beveled edges on
them, which gives the bracelet a modern look without being trendy. A subtle but interesting detail.
The
bracelet is 25.3mm wide at the integrated lugs of the case and tapers to 19.9mm
at the clasp. Screw pins secure the
links together and sizing and adjustment of the bracelet was easy.
The
clasp is signed, with a pushbutton closure that actuates two pins that securely
lock over the machined deployant. It’s
not just a friction fit, but a real positive locking device. A machined dive extension pops out from the
rear of the clasp. The clasp also has
three micro-adjustment holes. In keeping
with the rest of the watch, the quality of the clasp, deployant and bracelet is
top-notch.
Presentation
is a large black outer box with separate lid and a nice zippered inner box that
could easily be used as a travel pouch of sorts. The inner box is rigid but constructed of
somewhat flexible vinyl covered plastic.
A separate nook in the outer box houses the instruction manual and
special insert talking about the Maldives islands and the Maldives watch itself. The manual and warranty information is placed
in a hardcover binder.
The
instruction manual is quite comprehensive and detailed, which is a nice
surprise in this day and age of minimal documentation or ‘find it online’
thinking. The manual is of course in
various languages, but the English portion is 24 pages in length, with
accompanying photos to describe various features. While universal for other ORIS models, the
manual is still quite complete and useful.
Another
interesting aside about the manual, there is a ‘proof of ownership’ page that
has room for three owner’s names. This
is the first time I have seen a watch company acknowledge the fact that a
high-end watch doesn’t always remain with the first purchaser and said watch is
sometimes sold off. Kudos to ORIS for
being cognizant of this potential.
Overall,
the ORIS Aquis Maldives is a beautiful, functional, well-made watch. I have been telling many of my WIS friends
that I believe ORIS has really stepped up their game as of late. While I still love my ORIS TT1 diver and
think it’s a good quality watch, the Maldives just takes what they were doing
and adds to it, with superb fit and finish, high-end features and unique looks.
I
said earlier that the Maldives, in my opinion, can go head-to-head with an
Omega Seamaster Pro. I have a new
ceramic bezel Seamaster and in side-by-side comparisons, the ORIS is the equal
of the Seamaster. The only place where
the Omega wins is in the co-axial COSC movement, but is that really worth a
price that is 60-percent higher? (based on MSRPs of $2,800 USD for the ORIS and
$4,400 USD for the Omega). And remember,
the ORIS is titanium, the Omega is stainless steel.
I
truly love both watches, but ORIS could certainly put a COSC movement in the
Maldives (or other Aquis models) and the cost advantage compared to Omega would
still be strongly in ORIS’ favor.
As
it stands, the Maldives is an exceptional watch is all respects and a strong
value to boot. Since there are only 2000
of these in existence, grab one while you can, you will not be disappointed!
Cons: integrated bracelet limits strap choices, no lume on bezel markers a disadvantage for serious divers, some people may prefer stainless steel construction
Verdict: outstanding in nearly all respects, ORIS ups its game and produces a fantastic dive watch that can still be had for a relative bargain. The Maldives is hard to beat.
Thanks for reading and enjoy the pictures.
Excelsior!
-Marc
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