Model # 93005-3-NBUR
Brand/Model: Edox Class 1 GMT Worldtimer
Movement: Swiss automatic
Material: stainless steel case
with solid ceramic bezel, rubber strap
Complications: date display, independently adjustable third
GMT hand
Price: approximate MSRP $3,492
USD (discontinued)
Plenty of photos follow the review.
Click on the pictures to enlarge.
Edox is one of
those Swiss brands that fly under the radar and I became curious about the
brand, since I had never owned an Edox watch before. When some of their more recent, yet
discontinued, pieces started showing up online at substantial discounts, I
pulled the trigger on this Edox Class 1 GMT Worldtimer to see what the brand
was all about. Boy, am I glad I took the
plunge!
Edox makes its
watches in its Les Genevez factory in Switzerland and has quite the range of
models and styles, with both automatic and quartz movements. Edox history dates back to 1884 in
Switzerland, when the company was founded.
Edox means ‘measuring of time’ in ancient Greek. The company’s hourglass logo was first shown
in 1900 and the company’s watch manufacturing has progressed steadily since.
Edox has developed
some well-known horological innovations, such as the double gasket crown for
improved water resistance which debuted in 1961 and the famous ‘Geoscope’
worldtimer, introduced in 1970, being billed as the ‘first genuine world time
watch.’
In 2008, Edox
became the official timekeeper of the Class 1 World Powerboat Championship, of
which the watch being reviewed here is named after.
The Edox Class 1
GMT Worldtimer being reviewed starts with an all stainless steel case that is
both polished and brushed. The left case
side has a polished stainless steel inset plate secured with screws that says ‘Class
I’ in reference to the brand’s Class 1 Powerboat timekeeping sponsorship as
previously mentioned.
Case diameter is
43mm; with crown it measures 47mm.
Lug-to-lug measurement is 49.1mm, so this watch sits comfortably on the
wrist. Case thickness is a rather svelte
12.3mm. Lug width is 24mm.
The lugs have fixed
screwhead covers on them that add a bit of style and all the screwheads are
aligned vertically, which is cool. Also,
the screwheads for the lug covers and the inset plate on the case side are
styled in the hourglass Edox logo.
The crown screws
down and is signed with an inset black circle with the Edox logo on it. Very classy!
The crown is just about the perfect size (slightly on the large side
without being huge) and screws down smoothly with about 3-1/2 turns.
The caseback is a
screwdown type with an rather heavily embossed
propeller in the center, and various engravings depicting the serial number,
case number, etc. plus verbiage about the Class 1 Powerboat Championship. The look of the caseback is nifty.
The quality and
finish of the case is superb.
The Edox Class 1
GMT Worldtimer is factory rated at a good 300 meters of water resistance.
The dial on this
watch is unique, functional and easy-to-read.
The dial itself is mainly black with a grey radar-style circular grid on
the inner part of the dial. A red and
white roulette-style track is on the outside of the grey grid, and comprises
the 24-hour subdial for the GMT hand.
Small arabics in black are on a red background and are separated by a
small block of white between each red block.
On the outside of
the roulette 24-hour ring is a plain black area with applied rectangular luminous
markers and finally the chapter ring, which is done in blue and black, with the
hash marks and arabics (every five seconds) for the seconds markers.
This may all sound
a bit busy, but in reality, it is not and functions as a cohesive whole. Also, please note, even though this watch is
billed as a ‘worldtimer’ it does not have any cities listed on the dial or
bezel, so it can only track a second time zone, but not the time in individual worldwide cities. Why Edox decided to add ‘worldtimer’ to this
model’s name is beyond me, but I just wanted to be clear about this.
The hour and minute
hands are silver with white inset lume and the seconds hand is a simple
non-luminous silver stick. The handset
style is a pleasing rectilinear design that looks contemporary while also being
easy to see. The GMT hand is a semi-wide
pointer style that is all red and extends only to the inside of the roulette-looking
24-hour subdial, which is a GMT style that I appreciate.
A quickset date is
at the 3 position, which features a black on white date wheel. Alignment of the date inside the window is
perfect.
A flat sapphire
crystal covers the dial and a solid
black ceramic bezel encircles the crystal.
The bezel is a 60-click unidirectional design that is slightly tall on
its sides with grooves for an easy grip (a good idea, as the ceramic is smooth
and can be hard to grab hold of) along with standard infilled white hash marks
for the first 15 minutes of the hour and infilled white arabics and markers for
the rest of the hour. There’s an
inverted triangle at the 12 position with a lume dot in the center.
The bezel is shiny
black and also has four of those stylized screwheads as on the case that add a
bit of pop to the bezel. The screwheads
appear at approximately the 7, 22, 37 and 52 marks on the bezel. Personally, I could do without this
embellishment because they really don’t add anything to the watch. But I do really love the ceramic bezel, it
looks and feels super and gives this watch an expensive cache.
Lume color is green
and lume quality is good, but not overly strong, although the application of
the lume is even. The hour and minute
hands, the markers on the outer edge of the dial and the lume pip all glow in
the dark.
Dial lettering is
about average, with the Edox logo, the name ‘Edox’ and ‘Automatic’ appearing
below the 12 position and ‘GMT’, ‘Worldtimer’ and ‘300M/1000FT’ appearing above
the six position. Thankfully, the
lettering is rather small and doesn’t detract from the readability of the dial. As I already said, while the dial might
appear busy, it functions great and is easy to tell both the local time and GMT
time at a glance.
As with the rest of
the case, fit and finish and build quality of the dial, crystal and bezel are all
first-rate. My standard 8X loupe exam
showed no dirt or defects on the dial or hands.
Inside the Edox
Class 1 GMT Worldtimer beats a Swiss automatic movement that Edox calls its
‘Caliber 93’. This movement is based on
the venerable ETA 2893 and runs at 28,800 vph in 21 jewels. This movement is pretty much the standard
bearer among GMT movements and works just like it should.
In the first crown setting position, moving the crown clockwise sets the GMT hand in one-hour steps, while moving the crown counter-clockwise sets the date. The local time on the main hour and minute hands is set with the crown in the outer most (#2) position.
In the first crown setting position, moving the crown clockwise sets the GMT hand in one-hour steps, while moving the crown counter-clockwise sets the date. The local time on the main hour and minute hands is set with the crown in the outer most (#2) position.
The Edox Class 1
GMT Worldtimer winds and sets fine, the GMT and date functions are easy to set
and perform flawlessly. During my
testing, accuracy was +11 seconds over 24 hours in the crown-up position with a
strong power reserve of 50-1/4 hours, so overall performance is very good.
This Edox comes on
a smooth black rubber dive strap that is scented. I just don’t understand the allure of scented
straps. I really don’t care for them;
just give me the natural rubber smell, but at least the scent here isn’t too
overpowering.
That being said, the quality of the strap is nice, with a soft and flexible feel and minimal embellishment, with just a small Edox logo on each side of the strap near the lugs, a pleasing departure from some brands that feel they have to use their rubber straps as billboards with garish and overly large brand lettering. There are also two floating keepers.
That being said, the quality of the strap is nice, with a soft and flexible feel and minimal embellishment, with just a small Edox logo on each side of the strap near the lugs, a pleasing departure from some brands that feel they have to use their rubber straps as billboards with garish and overly large brand lettering. There are also two floating keepers.
The strap measures
24mm at the lugs and tapers to 20mm at the clasp. The clasp is a pushbutton butterfly style
deployant that is signed with the Edox logo.
While the clasp could be a bit more comfortable at times, a nice detail
is the perlage that has been applied to the outside of the clasp, so you see it
when you open the clasp.
The strap has two trimmable sections on one side if you wish to shorten the strap, with the other side of the strap having seven holes to choose from for the pin on the clasp to fit into. I did not trim the strap and it works pretty well on my thin wrist, but I do find the butterfly deployant to be unnecessarily fussy when putting the watch on. Please just give me a standard pin buckle or a single-style deployant, thank you very much.
While I haven’t tried
it, I think this watch would look super cool on a black or dark brown leather
strap, as I am one of those guys who loves their divers on leather straps.
Presentation is
quite nice, with a large signed black two-piece outer box and a plastic
two-piece inner box. The inner box fits
into a plastic Edox logo frame which makes it a bit clunky but kinda cool all
the same. A small slot at the bottom of
the outer box holds the combined instruction manual and warranty booklet.
Overall, I am quite
impressed with the Edox Class 1 GMT Worldtimer as my introduction to the Edox
brand. It’s a unique, high-quality watch
from a true Swiss brand that has great functionality, style and lots of little
details that make it stand out from the crowd.
Factor in that these watches can be had at decent discounts and you have
a winner, with the added bonus that you won’t see too many out in the
field. Very well done!
Pros: true
Swiss quality from a real Swiss watch brand, reliable Swiss automatic engine,
unique design, lots of cool details, solid ceramic bezel, 300 meter water
resistance
Cons: scented
strap not for everybody, lume could be brighter, butterfly deployant hard to
use and not that comfortable, screwheads on bezel don’t enhance the design
Verdict: Edox
has created an enjoyable watch that has its own unique personality, with real
Swiss DNA through and through. The Class
1 GMT Worldtimer is a true work of art and worthy of your consideration if you
want a quality, classy/sporty GMT automatic.
Nice work!
Thanks for reading
and enjoy the pics.
Excelsior!
-Marc
Great review. Can you please let me know your wrist circumference?
ReplyDeleteThanks for reading, my wrist is about 6-1/2 to 6-3/4 inches around.
DeleteCheers!
-MCV
Very nice review. Thanks!
ReplyDelete