Review of Certina DS Action Titanium Automatic Diver

Model #  CO13.407.44.081.00
 
Brand/Model:  Certina DS Action Titanium Automatic Diver
Movement:  Swiss automatic
Material:  titanium case and bracelet
Complications:  date display
Price:  MSRP:  about $925 USD

Plenty of photos follow the review.  Click on the pictures to enlarge.
 
Certina is a watch brand of the Swatch Group and is not widely known here in the states nor are they officially sold in the United States, so this bit of exclusivity is kind of nifty.  The brand dates to 1888 and its founding by brothers Adolf and Alfred Kurth who started in the manufacture of movements and supplies for watches, not making complete timepieces until several years later. 

The company’s first brand name appeared in 1906 as ‘Grana.’  It wasn’t until 1938 that the current name of Certina was used.  Certina is Latin for ‘assured’ or ‘certain.’  Not bad qualities to have in a watch.
 
The moniker ‘DS’ was introduced in 1959 as ‘double security’, as in a movement suspended inside a reinforced case, a form of shock resistance.  Their DS designs raised shock resistance to being able to withstand a 6 meter drop and 20 atms of water resistance.  This design innovation basically marked the beginning of the company’s sports and dive models, with a series of endorsements and action-related adventures featuring various Certina watches throughout the sixties and seventies.
 
What drew me to this Certina DS Action diver?  Its overall fairly unique look, exclusivity (at least in the U.S.) and lightweight titanium (Ti) construction.  And the price wasn’t bad for all that this Swiss watch offers.  The DS Action diver is also available in stainless steel, as well as automatic chronograph versions with both rubber and stainless steel bracelets.
 
The DS Action Ti starts with an all titanium case measuring 41.5mm without the large, widely knurled and signed screwdown crown (with two o-ring gaskets in the crown and one o-ring gasket on the stem for extra security against water intrusion).  With the crown, it measures 47mm.  The case is fully brushed in the familiar satin grey titanium color. 

The Ti caseback is screwed down, polished and showcases the Certina turtle logo.  According to DS standards, the caseback is reinforced and has a ‘specific’ gasket sealing it to the case.  Lug spacing is 21mm and case thickness is a fairly thin 12.3mm.  The watch sits comfortably on the wrist and does not wear large.
 
Overall fit and finish on the DS Action is quite good and while not the kind of watch that I immediately fell in love with, after owning it for awhile and wearing it, I have come to really enjoy what it represents (value, quality, functionality).  Please note!  I purchased this watch second-hand and the clasp has some bad polish marks on it where someone tried to remove some scuffs and didn’t do a very good job, as they show up in the photos.
 
The DS Action diver is factory rated at 200 meters of water resistance and is built to meet ISO standards for dive watches, being ISO 6425 compliant (which not all dive watches do).  You can be assured that this watch will take to the water without any problems. 
 
The dial and handset on the DS Action Ti is really where this watch shines.  The dial is a silvery grey with a subtle sunburst effect.  A very sharp color.  The hands are silver with white inset lume, with an arrow style hour hand.  The seconds hand is half white, half red, with a lume ball about two-thirds of the way up the hand, in the middle of the red section.  
 
Round applied luminous markers are at the five minute marks, with rectangular applied luminous markers at the 15, 30 and 45 positions.  An inverted triangular luminous marker is at the 12 position.  Lume is the currently popular blue color and is of good quality.
 
The quickset date is at the 4:30 position.  The date wheel is standard black on white and alignment within the smallish window is fine.  
 
About the only dislike of the dial is the amount of printing on it, with three rows of wording on the upper half of the dial and four rows on the  lower half.  It’s really too much lettering cluttering up the dial; half the amount would be much better.  A flat sapphire crystal with a non-reflective coating protects the dial.
 
The bezel is another winner on this watch.  It’s a standard 60-click unidirectional design but with widely spaced knurls, giving it a gear-like look.  The bezel rotates easily (almost a bit too easily), with positive clicks and nary any backlash. 

The insert is completely smooth and is finished in the same grey color of the dial.  Full markings (small dots for the minutes, arabics at each ten minute mark and marker bars at each five minute mark) are underneath the bezel insert.  The first 20 minutes of the bezel is luminous, being green lume instead of blue lume like on the dial.  An interesting treatment.  The lume quality on the bezel is not as good as on the dial.
 
Inside the DS Action diver beats a Swiss Made ETA 2824-2 automatic, a workhorse of a mechanical watch movement if there ever was one.  Timekeeping has been measured in my atelier at +12 seconds/24 hours, with a power reserve of 41-3/4 hours, all within expectations for this movement.  Of course, the movement hacks and manually winds.
 
The bracelet is solid titanium, with standard oyster style solid links, solid end links and a signed double locking clasp.  The clasp is just okay, it could be a bit heavier to keep up with the purposeful design of the watch; as is, it feels a bit cheap.  The deployant is machined titanium, with a stamped titanium dive extension. 

The bracelet measures 21mm at the lugs and tapers to 18.9mm at the clasp.  A simple, no-nonsense bracelet that gets the job done with a minimum of fuss.
 
Presentation is a decent looking white box with red lettering, appropriate for a watch of this price point.  There are two compartments inside the box, one for the watch and the other for the instructions and warranty cards.
 
Overall, the Certina DS Action titanium diver is a no-nonsense watch that is built to take a great deal of abuse and still come out functioning fine.  It’s a tool watch for sure, but has a bit more panache than some tool watches, which is a good thing.  Not overly bulky in any one dimension, this watch gets the job done while looking great doing so.
 
Pros:  great grey dial and bezel, very legible hands, nicely proportioned crown, lightweight titanium construction, bezel lume execution is slick, true Swiss heritage
 
Cons:  too much printing on the dial, date window a bit too small, stamped part of clasp could be thicker/of better quality
 
Verdict:  not a household name in the states, the Certina DS Action diver is a superb dive watch up to the task of actual diving as well as daily ‘desk’ diving.  It looks great, is well made and represents a good value for all that it possesses.  Well done!
 
Thanks for reading and enjoy the pictures.
 
Excelsior!
 
-Marc

Review of Gucci Timeless Series GMT Automatic

Model # YA126211

Brand/Model:  Gucci Timeless Series GMT Automatic
Movement:  Swiss automatic
Material:  stainless steel case and bracelet
Complications:  date display, independently adjustable 24-hour GMT hand
Price:  MSRP:  $1,595 USD; Street price around $950 USD

Plenty of photos follow the review.  Click on the pictures to enlarge.
 
When it comes to designer brands, I usually look the other way.  I don’t subscribe to purchasing a designer whatever just to look cool or be part of the ‘in’ crowd.  I’ve often felt that many designer items are vastly overpriced and are not necessarily any better quality than a similar item that costs far less.  So why am I about to write a review on a Gucci watch?  The answer is simple, I bought a Gucci watch and have been extremely impressed by it.

Gucci is at the top of designer brand names and has a level of brand recognition that most companies could only dream of.  They have quite an extensive array of watches, from quartz fashion types to more serious Swiss automatics, including divers and chronographs.  For more than a few months (showing unusual restraint on a watch purchase for yours truly) I had my eye on this Gucci GMT.  I liked the design and looks, but just wasn’t sure if it would pan out in person, so to speak.

When it went on sale at what I considered to be a ‘pull the trigger’ price, I did just that and can honestly say, I am very glad I did.  This watch looks much better in person than in pictures, as there is a level of detail on this watch that has to be seen in person to appreciate.

I was initially concerned that it would be too large and just look dorky on my wrist, but the way the watch is designed, while still being on the big size, it is very comfortable, doesn’t wear clownishly large and looks fantastic.

Gucci does not actually manufacture their own watches, but rather has their higher-end Swiss models made by Bedat.  That’s good! 

The Timeless GMT starts with a fully brushed stainless steel case that measures 44.5mm without the signed (with the Gucci ‘G’) and thankfully non-screwdown crown.  Lately, it seems too many watch companies are putting screwdown crowns on watches that don’t need them.  If a watch has a modest water resistance rating, what’s the point?  So kudos to Gucci for being sensible here. 

With the crown, the Timeless GMT is 47.8mm.  An integrated crown guard protects the crown and is chamfered off enough not to look bulky but still manages to add a degree of protection.  Lug tip-to-lug tip measurement is 52mm, so while the diameter is generous, the overall height is manageable.  Think of it like the girl with wider hips but the rest of her being well proportioned.  Lots to like there!

Case thickness is 11.2mm, lugs are the odd 23mm.  This watch is available with either a stainless steel bracelet or black leather strap.  I opted for the bracelet, which for some reason, was priced less, so it was a no-brainer. 

The brushed finish on the case and bracelet is perfect for this watch, it makes it so much more casual and sleek looking.  Overall fit and finish is very good and the weight and balance of the piece will not disappoint.

I was initially disappointed to see that the caseback was not a screwdown type, but rather the dreaded snap back.  I despise snap-on casebacks because they are hard to remove and replace, but since I hardly have any quartz watches left in my collection and I don’t service my own automatics, the point has become rather moot. 

Still, the caseback on this watch is rather plain and unadorned, with the outer edge being the only polished area on the entire watch.  I was wishing they put more effort into stylizing the caseback rather than just putting the Gucci name on it, along with some miscellaneous wording and numbers.  But, there is sometimes something nice about a simpler caseback, so this one falls in-between.  Not the entirely sterile caseback of a Rolex nor the exquisite design of an Omega Seamaster.  I’ll just call it nothing special.

The dial on the Timeless GMT is really where this watch shines and where it exudes tons of class and style.  The center of the dial (which forms the 24-hour GMT ring and where the solid red arrow-shaped GMT hand resides) is black and semi-perforated.  A ring of small white arabics from 1 to 24 encircle this part of the dial.  I love the fact that this watch has a smaller GMT hand instead of a long, thin GMT hand as is usually found on GMT watches.  To me, the smaller hand seems easier to read and doesn’t get lost on the dial between the markers.

The hands are dauphine style, silver with inset lume, with the seconds hand being a simple silver stick, rather thin.  The seconds hand could be a bit nicer, but it keeps in context with the class of the watch, so no major complaints here.

The upper half of the dial is black, with the lower half a sort of shiny grey-brown.  This is Gucci’s take on the AM/PM delineation that some GMT watches offer.  It looks stunning!  Luminous applied markers are found at each five minute mark, with smaller markers at the 12 and 6 positions.  A painted red arrow resides above the 12 marker and is very subtle in its appearance.

The dial does look like it could be a bit too busy, but due to the larger diameter of this watch, it really isn’t crowded.  Below the 12 marker is the wording ‘Gucci’ and ‘Automatic’ and above the 6 marker is ‘Greenwich Mean Time’, a classier take on the usual ‘GMT’ of other watches.  I like it!  Under examination with an 8X loupe, I could detect no defects or dirt on the dial, just a nice clean build.

A quickset date window is at the three position, framed with a thin silver rim.  The date wheel is white on black and with the framing, is quite easy to read.  Date wheel alignment within the window is fine. 

Lume quality on the Timeless GMT is quite good, given this is not a dive watch.  The watch is factory rated at a modest 5 atm of water resistance.

Capping the dial is a flat sapphire crystal with absolutely no distortion.   A black anodized omni-directional cities bezel finishes off the dial area.  The bezel has 23 cities listed on it and clicks into position at each city location.  The cities are just printed on the bezel in a silverish color and hopefully will not rub off due to wear, but overall, the bezel is a quality piece of engineering and looks superb on this watch.  The black color of the bezel adds just the right amount of sportiness to this piece.

Inside the Timeless GMT beats a Swiss Made automatic movement, presumable an ETA 2893.  Since the caseback is not a display type, the documentation does not mention what the engine is and I’m not about to crack the back to check, this is my best guess.  The GMT hand is independently adjustable in one-hour increments.  The watch handwinds and hacks and keeps great time, running about +8/24 hours with a long 48-3/4 hour power reserve.

The stainless steel bracelet features solid multi-piece links (nine pieces) with solid end links and a continuous style design signed on one link where the butterfly style clasp joins together.  The bracelet is fully brushed, to coordinate with the finish on the watch case. 

The deployant is machined and signed, but unfortunately does not have a pushbutton release, so you have to just tug on the bracelet to get it opened.  It is not real tight, so you don’t have to pull too hard, but a watch at this price point and overall level of design needs a pushbutton on the clasp to do things right.  Demerits here from me. 

Also, due to the continuous style design of the bracelet, there are no microadjustments and no half-links, so getting a perfect fit may be tricky.  The links themselves are not too big, so this aids in getting a better fit, but this is one reason I tend to not like continuous style bracelets.  Luckily, for me, I was able to achieve a decent fit with this watch.  Link removal is by standard split pins. 

The bracelet measures 23mm at the lugs and tapers to 17.9mm at the clasp.

Presentation was fairly straightforward, a nice, but rather simple box that has a single cardboard piece that fits over the inner box.

Overall, the Gucci Timeless GMT is a classy, somewhat dressy, somewhat sporty very functional watch that exhibits great build quality, a unique and wonderful looking dial and the cache of the Gucci name.  Bellissimo!

Pros:  reliable Swiss automatic movement, great looking dial and bezel, brushed finish is perfect for this piece 

Cons:  a bit large for some, bracelet needs a pushbutton release, snap-on caseback looks cheap

Verdict:  stylish, dependable and well-made, the Gucci Timeless GMT is the perfect addition to your collection if you’re looking for a GMT watch that is a bit different but with tons of personality. 

Thanks for reading and enjoy the pictures.

Excelsior!

-Marc

Review of Tag Heuer Aquaracer 500 Automatic

Model # WAJ2111.BA0870

Brand/Model:  Tag Heuer Aquaracer 500
Movement:  Swiss automatic
Material:  stainless steel case and bracelet
Complications:  date display
Price:  MSRP:  $2,850 USD

Plenty of photos follow the review.  Click on the pictures to enlarge.
 
It seems many people these days consider Tag Heuer to be a ‘fashion’ brand, due in part to their advertising with various celebrity-type and athlete-based endorsements.  But, don’t worry, if you’re a true WIS, Tag still has plenty of serious watches, some with fascinating movement technology that continues to push the envelope of what can be done with a mechanical watch movement.

What I appreciate about Tag Heuer is that the brand has a true Swiss heritage and continues to produce great dive/tool watches, iconic models like the Monaco and the aforementioned bleeding edge movements to showcase their technical expertise.  And to be honest, before I became a certified full-blown WIS, I always thought Tags were overrated.  Not until I bought one did I come to appreciate their build quality, accuracy out of the box and overall design aesthetic.  I currently own three Tags, which is the most of any one brand in my collection.

The Aquaracer line is large and varied and I was drawn to the 500 meter models because of their unique looks and no-nonsense features.  Fashion watches these are not!  The Aquaracer 500 reviewed here starts with a fully brushed stainless steel case with angled sides that give the watch a bit more presence and heft.  Case diameter is 43.5mm, but it really doesn’t wear that large.  With the crown, the measurement is 48.2mm.  Lugs are 21mm, case thickness is 13.3mm.

The main screwdown crown is beautifully executed, with large, wide knurls for an easy grip and a black inset Tag logo.  Crown guards extend from the case to protect the crown.  On the opposite side of the case at the 10 position is the automatic helium escape valve (HEV), which has a knurled collar around it.  Unlike some HEVS (Rolex SeaDweller and Doxa Sub) that are flush fit with the case and unobtrusive, Tag (like Omega) chooses to have their HEV protrude from the case side.  To each his own.

The caseback on the Aquaracer 500 is a screwdown display type with a sapphire crystal showing off the suitably decorated Caliber 5 automatic movement.  Some think a display back on a true dive watch is superfluous, but I don’t mind seeing the movement, especially when the time has been taken to decorate it like Tag has on the Aquaracer 500.  And of course, the watch is rated at 500 meters of water resistance, so this is a serious dive watch.

Tag has made the 120-click unidirectional bezel easy to turn while diving due to the rectangular pieces that extend slightly on the bezel every 10 minutes (Tag refers to them as ‘studs’), starting at the ‘five’ mark.  The bezel does indeed turn easily, but doesn’t have a super high quality sound or feel to it and also has a very slight backlash.  Not anything to deter one from purchasing this watch, but not the precision you might expect at this price point, either. 

The black inset on the bezel is matte paint and not a rubber piece; it looks good and gets the job done.  At the five minute marks on the bezel sit stylized stainless steel screw heads, while stainless arabics are found at each 10 minute mark.  A small lume pip sits in the triangle on the bezel at 12.

The dial is what really attracted me to this watch.  I love the silver/grey shade and the vertical ribbing that adds dimension and appeal to this watch without looking novel or gimmicky.  The markers are hand applied and luminous, as are the black outline hands.  The seconds hand is black with an orange luminous tip.  Lume quality is excellent, as it should be for a serious dive watch.

A magnified quickset date resides at the 9 position, 180 degrees opposite the standard 3 position where most dates are placed.  This unique placement works fine and the external cyclops does a fine job of magnifying the black on white date wheel.  Both the cyclops and date wheel are properly centered.

Minimal lettering on the dial includes an applied Tag Heuer logo below the 12, along with the model name ‘Aquaracer.’  Above the six is ‘Caliber 5’ and ‘Automatic.’  Next to the date window at the 9 position, a silver escutcheon sits between the date window and the hand pinions with ‘500M’ printed in black.  This is a bit stylized, but doesn’t detract from the overall functionality of this watch. 

To reiterate, I think the dial execution on the Aquaracer 500 is first rate and a joy to look at.  The design of the markers and hands makes this watch very legible, and as I get older, I appreciate legibility more and more.

A flat sapphire crystal covers the dial and is very slightly raised above the bezel.  No distortion has been noted with the crystal.

Inside the Aquaracer 500 beats Tag’s Caliber 5 automatic movement.  As far as I know, this is a decorated and modified base ETA automatic, with 25 jewels running at 28,800 vph.  One thing I really enjoy about the three Tag Heuers I own is their accuracy right out of the box.  Even though none of the Tags I own are COSC rated, they all keep chronometer time well within COSC standards.  Impressive!  And the Aquaracer has been no exception, running almost at zero deviation over 24 hours on the bench and during wearing at about +2/24 hours.  Power reserve is the expected 42-1/4 hours (Tag specs power reserve at 38 hours).

Tag has decorated the Caliber 5 with Cotes de Geneve stripes on the signed rotor and various plates and bridges on the movement decorated with perlage.  Overall, a nice presentation and a bit unexpected in a serious tool watch.

The bracelet is typical Tag quality, meaning very good.  It sports brushed solid stainless steel links, with the center links being slightly raised above the outer links, one of Tag’s signature styles.  Solid end links, a pushbutton signed clasp and a signed machined deployant complete the features.

 

Demerits for the rather cheap stamped steel diver extension.  There are three microadjustment holes on the clasp and link adjustment is accomplished via a pin and collar system which did not present any problems.  The bracelet measures 21mm at the lugs and tapers to about 18mm at the clasp.

Presentation is standard Tag with a black heavy cardboard outer box and black padded hard inner box with separate leatherette instruction and warranty holder.

Overall, the Tag Heuer Aquaracer 500 combines a serious diver watch with just enough style to make it a great daily wearer.  It looks neither too purposeful or too fashionista, which is a good thing.  A great choice for the pool or the daily scrum.

Pros:  solid build quality, true 500 meter dive capability, awesome ribbed dial, accurate Swiss movement, great lume

Cons:  needs a machined dive extension, bezel could have slightly more precision, date at 9 may throw some people off

Verdict:  a perfect watch for work and play, it can take what you dish out while looking the part of a Tag, stylish and functional at the same time.  Superbly executed!

Thanks for reading and enjoy the pictures.

Excelsior!

-Marc