Review of Tag Heuer Aquaracer 500 Automatic in Black

Model # WAK2180.FT6027

Brand/Model:  Tag Heuer Aquaracer 500 Automatic

Movement:   Swiss automatic

Material:  black titanium carbide coated titanium case and rubber strap with stainless steel deployant

Complications:  date display

Price:  MSRP $3,400 USD

Plenty of photos follow the review. Click on the pictures to enlarge.

Tag Heuer continues to impress me.  I feel their watches are too quickly written off by some people as a ‘fashion’ brand or something not to be taken seriously amongst watch collectors.  I’ve always been satisfied with the quality and feel of their watches and the sportiness of many of their designs.

Tag Heuer has quite a wide variety of Aquaracer models in both 300 meter and 500 meter water resistance ratings.  The series celebrates Tag’s partnership with Oracle Team USA in the 34^th America’s Cup.

The Aquaracer 500 reviewed here has understated elegance while retaining a definite sporting edge. Due to its black case, bezel and strap, some may find it too dark as all black watches can be a love or hate proposition, but in this case, the color works great on this model.  This was also a difficult watch to photograph, so I apologize if the photos aren’t up to their usual quality.

Many online descriptions of this particular Aquaracer model list the case as being made of stainless steel.  The case is in fact Grade 2 titanium with a black titanium carbide coating as confirmed on Tag Heuer’s official web site.  For some odd reason, the caseback does not indicate what material the watch is made from, which is a bit strange, but rest assured, the case is titanium.

This Aquaracer 500 automatic starts with the aforementioned titanium case with titanium carbide coating that measures 41mm without the signed, screwdown crown and 46.3mm with the crown included.  The crown screws down with a satisfying minimum of three complete turns and has a smooth and positive action.

An automatic helium escape valve (HEV) is located on the left side of the case at the 10 o’clock position.  It would be nice if the HEV was black carbide coated as is the rest of the case, as the silver tone of the HEV makes it stand out unnecessarily against the rest of the watch case.  Small demerits here.

The caseback is nicely embossed with a diver helmet logo and of course, is a screwdown type.  At least the caseback is black, as some watches with black cases still have a silver tone caseback.

Case thickness is 12.2mm and lug width is a manageable 20mm, which makes it easy to find a wide variety of aftermarket straps if you so choose.  It’s nice that this watch has a high water resistance rating but is not overly bulky as some deep divers can be.

The Aquaracer 500 is factory-rated at 500 meters of water resistance.  Overall fit and finish on this watch is first-rate and the black titanium carbide coating is evenly applied and appears to be very durable.

The dial on this Aquaracer 500 has horizontal ridges (Tag calls them a ‘horizontal streak effect’) that lend a unique and subtle texture to the watch face.  The hands are silver with inset lume and the seconds hand is a simple silver stick with a yellow pointer tip with infilled lume.  Lume quality is excellent.

There are rectangular lume filled markers at each five minute mark on the dial.  The quickset date window is framed in white at the three position.  The date wheel is white on black and alignment is the window is perfect.  A white chapter ring is printed on the outer-most edge of the dial with minute marks for the entire hour.

What I especially like about this dial is the clean, legible layout.  The hands are easy to see, the yellow tip on the seconds hand is a nice touch and the texturing of the dial adds interest without being distracting.

Below the 12 marker is the Tag Heuer logo and ‘Aquaracer’ below the logo.  Above the six marker is ‘Calibre 5’, ‘Automatic’ and ‘500 M / 1650 ft’.  All the nomenclature is in white and is not distracting and doesn’t clutter up the dial.  Again, nicely done.

The dial is capped with a flat sapphire crystal, most likely with anti-reflective coating.  I say this only because Tag does not definitively say whether the crystal on the Aquaracer 500 has A/R coating on it. 

The bezel is a 120-click unidirectional type that rotates easily with no backlash.  The bezel has a coin-edge with grippers plus a black ceramic insert with a lume pip at the 12 position.  Arabics mark every 10 minutes on the bezel, with hash marks for the five minute positions.  It’s a very symmetrical bezel layout and again, is not overdone in anyway.  It’s a no-nonsense bezel that functions like it should.  

Inside the Aquaracer is Tag Heuer’s Calibre 5 automatic movement.  This engine starts as a base Swiss ETA 2824-2 with either 25 or 26 jewels (again, Tag doesn’t say exactly which) and is tweaked and decorated by Tag.  It beats at 28,800 vph, hacks, manually winds and does everything a quality Swiss watch movement is supposed to do.

Accuracy, as with all Tag Heuer watches I have owned, is superb, despite not being COSC certified.  Timekeeping in the crown-up position has been a fine +3 seconds over 24 hours with the expected 41-1/4 hour power reserve this movement should deliver. 

Crown action, winding, setting and date quick-setting function perfectly, so no complaints whatsoever in the movement department.

The rubber strap on the Aquaracer 500 is signed somewhat garishly with the Tag Heuer name.  At least it isn’t painted white or something, but rather molded into the strap in black.  The strap is also scented with vanilla, which I really don’t care for.  The smell is rather strong, but after awhile, you tend not to notice it so much, but I would really prefer an unscented strap.

The strap measures 20mm at the lugs and tapers to 17.9mm at the clasp.  The strap is the type where the loose end tucks under the opposite strap edge, so it wears like a bracelet with no strap end to flap around.  Another nice feature of this design is that the strap adjustment is infinite, as there are no holes in the strap.  You also do not have to cut or trim the strap to get a proper fit.  Very nice! 

The strap also has ridges on the inside to improve grip on the wrist and overall is a comfortable piece.

The pushbutton clasp is signed with the Tag Heuer logo and is satin finished stainless steel with a machined deployant.  I do wish the clasp was black to match the strap and the rest of the watch and also made of titanium to match the material of the case.  Small nitpicks, but important.

Presentation is standard Tag, with a white cardboard overwrap, a black cardboard two-piece outer box and a black padded inner box with a separate leatherette holder for the documentation.  Totally acceptable for this watch.

The Tag Heuer Aquaracer series is a fine choice for anyone looking for a quality ‘tool’ watch whether or not you are a diver.  The Aquaracer 500 series turns everything up a notch, and the model reviewed here is a superb timepiece, with an excellent feature set, high quality and a clean, functional design that works on land, sea, air or even in a cave, if you are a spelunker.  A very well done design by Tag Heuer.

Pros:  titanium case with black titanium carbide coating, legible dial, great Swiss engine, high water resistance, comfortable and practical strap design, quality all the way through

Cons: HEV valve should be black to match rest of watch, clasp should be black and made of titanium to match rest of watch, scented rubber strap is too smelly

Verdict: the black titanium Aquaracer 500 is a fine tool watch that delivers on almost all points and is a superb piece you can enjoy anywhere because of its fine style, rugged design and high quality

 

Thanks for reading and enjoy the pics.

Excelsior!

-Marc

Review of Omega Speedmaster Racing Automatic Chronograph

Model # 326.30.40.50.03.001

Brand/Model:  Omega Speedmaster Racing Automatic Chronograph

Movement:   Swiss automatic co-axial column wheel, COSC certified

Material:  stainless steel case and bracelet

Complications:  date display, chronograph timing up to 12 hours in one-fifth second increments

Price:  MSRP $4,800 USD

Plenty of photos follow the review. Click on the pictures to enlarge.

First off, welcome to 2015!  I hope the New Year finds all watch enthusiasts and collectors in good stead with their timepieces and on the prowl for more new and nifty watches.

Much like my previous review on the Breitling Superocean Héritage Chrongraphe 44, I will start off this review of the Omega Speedmaster Racing automatic chronograph with a statement of fact and a slight bias:  I really like Omega watches.  Omega has been on a roll the past few years, pretty much completely redesigning and updating their entire lineup, placing mainly in-house movements in their watches and debuting some new and exciting pieces.  The only thing I don’t like about what they’ve been doing is the sharp rise in prices of their watches.  If you shop around you can still get some great deals, but overall, I hope that Omega is not pricing itself out of reach of their traditionally core and loyal audience.

That being said, the watch that is the object of this review can be had brand new through various on-line sources for around $3,000 USD, which is a very, very good value for all that this watch packs in.

The Speedmaster line was first introduced in 1957, years before it became known as the ‘moon watch.’  Since then, Omega has expanded and refined the series with a myriad of sizes, dial colors, features and movements, but luckily, any Speedmaster still has the basic look that dutifully pays homage to the originals produced over a half-century ago.

I recently was asked about how the watch I’m reviewing here compares to a few other Speedmaster models and my comment back was that if you’re expecting to have the look and/or feel of the classic ‘moon’ Speedy, you’d be disappointed.  I said this only because this watch is an automatic with a thoroughly modern engine, a dial look and layout that is decidedly more modern and an overall feel of ‘today’ rather than of yesteryear.

I’ve actually owned two modern Speedmasters, one with a grey dial and non-coaxial movement and the watch being featured here.  I liked the grey dial’s look, but found it hard to actually read the time, so I sold it and purchased this blue dial beauty.  The color of the dial on this model is what drew me in and it is absolutely superb.  It is nicely striated and has such a perfect shade of true medium to darker blue that sets off the watch to perfection.  The pictures really can’t do justice, you’ll have to go to an Omega Boutique and see one for yourself.

The Speedmaster Racing starts with a finely brushed and polished all stainless steel case that measures 38.8mm (Omega lists 40mm) without the signed crown; 42.2mm crown inclusive.  Thickness is 15.1mm and lug spacing is a tidy 19mm.  This watch is definitely not oversized, some might even consider it small by today’s larger-watch standards, but I know plenty of people that say the size is just about perfect.  I’m in the middle on this one.

The caseback screws down and is heavily embossed with the Omega sea lion logo, which itself is highly polished.  I’ve always adored how Omega creates these impressive casebacks; to me, they always resemble a proof coin with their high relief and beautifully polished surfaces.  Incredibly nice!

The crown is signed and non-screwdown, and is rather on the small size.  It is a bit hard to manually wind this watch (which is something I like doing with all my automatics prior to wearing them) and it is even a bit hard to set the time due to the diminutive size of the crown.  Slight demerits here.

The chronograph pushers are standard pushbutton types and work properly.  On the left side of the case at the 10 o’clock position is a small recessed pushbutton (‘corrector’ in Omega-speak) used to quickset the date.  Omega even provides a small black rubber tool (see photos) to use when setting the date, which makes it a snap.

The Speedmaster Racing is factory-rated for 100 meters of water resistance.

The dial, as previously stated, is a gem on this model of the Speedmaster Racing.  It is a fantastic shade of blue, with vertical striations that lend a bit of interest and class to the dial.  There are lumed printed markers every five minutes with a printed chapter ring in black on the outer edge of the dial.  Minute marks and small arabics mark every five minutes (05, 10, etc.) except at the 3, 6 and 9 positions on the dial due to the size of the subdials impinging on the chapter ring at these spots.

The hour and minute hands are simple silver sticks with infill lume, while the subdial hands are plain silver, as is the chronograph central seconds hand.  There are also two small lume dots on either side of the marker at the 12 position.  Lume quality is very good and is the cool blue shade of SuperLuminova that is so popular now with up-market watches.  Just be advised that the lume on the dial is rather narrow, there are no big splashes of it, so this watch, while very legible in the dark, will not glow like a torch like some people are used to.

The subdials are black textured ‘Clous de Paris’ pattern and the subdials at the three and nine positions are slightly oversized, which makes them easier to read.  The subdial at three is the chronograph minute totalizer; the subdial at six is the chronograph hour totalizer (with the date window sectioned out of the bottom of this subdial) and the subdial at nine is the watch seconds hand.  Each subdial has a simple printed minute, hour or seconds track with small arabics at either the quarter-hour or third-hour positions on the subdial.  It’s a clean, legible and functional arrangement.

The date window is at the six position, in the bottom of the hour totalizer subdial.  The date wheel is white on black and the numerals are rather large and easy to read.  Alignment in the window is good.

Minimal dial printing is nice, with the Omega logo and the wording ‘Omega’, ‘Speedmaster’, ‘Co-axial’ and ‘Chronometer’ all stacked underneath the 12 position in very small type.

The bezel is an aluminum tachymeter (fixed) that is nicely finished and fit onto the watch case perfectly.  The matte black tachy ring is ever so slightly recessed into the bezel.  Capping the dial is a slightly domed double anti-reflective (inner and outer coating) sapphire crystal.

Build quality is superb, with no imperfections, dust or smudges noted under my 8X loupe examination.  Overall fit and finish on this watch is top-notch, as is to be expected from Omega.

Inside the Speedmaster Racing is an automatic movement of exceptional quality.  Exact specifications have been rather hard to come by, but the movement starts as a rather obscure ETA Valgranges A08.L01, which is also used in at least one Longines model.  Omega extensively modifies and upgrades this base movement adding a few jewels in the process to create their state-of-the-art co-axial column wheel chronograph movement with their Si 14 silicone balance spring.

The movement is COSC certified and is a huge part of what makes this watch an outstanding value.  Omega rates power reserve at 52 hours; during my testing, I achieved a fine 59 hour duration.  Timekeeping has been just inside COSC standards at +6 seconds over 24 hours.  Omega touts the reliability of this movement and gives buyers a four-year warranty to prove its durability.

All watch functions, from winding and setting to starting, stopping and resetting the chronograph, work as they should.

The bracelet is a nice affair, with solid stainless steel links and end links.  The bracelet features Omega’s updated link removal design, consisting of small screws that are taken out on each side of the link to release the link pin.  Totally easy and intuitive. 

The bracelet has links that are a multi-piece design, being both polished and brushed.  The clasp is a pushbutton style, signed with both the Omega and Speedmaster names.  The deployant is of course machined and signed.  There are only two micro-adjustment holes on the clasp, but Omega includes two half-links on the bracelet to help achieve a proper fit.  Since this watch is on the smaller side, most owners should have no problem getting the bracelet fit they desire.

The bracelet measures 19mm at the lugs and tapers to 17mm at the clasp.

Presentation is standard Omega, with a white cardboard outer box and inside, the recognizable padded red Omega presentation box with Omega medallion.  The familiar Omega instruction ‘book’ that covers all iterations of Omega’s models and the vinyl card holder with warranty card and pictogram card are also included.

Omega continues to find legions of fans with the Speedmaster series and for those looking for a bit sportier presentation that still has the attributes of the classic Speedmasters, the Speedmaster Racing is an excellent choice.  With its top-quality and technologically advanced movement, great looks and overall Omega panache, this watch is a winner, whether at the racetrack or not.

Pros:  great Swiss-technology engine, stunning blue dial, near-perfect size, strong value when bought right

Cons: crown too small, could use more lume, modest water resistance rating

Verdict: the Speedmaster Racing is one watch you could wear all the time if you wanted to; it’s functional, has the looks and pedigree to run with the big boys at a competitive price and wears just about perfect.  Give this one the checkered flag!

 

Thanks for reading and enjoy the pics.

Excelsior!

-Marc