Thursday, June 16, 2011

Review of Revue Thommen Airspeed XXL Automatic Chronograph

Model # 7001.6/16051.6183

At a Glance:

Brand/Model:  Revue Thommen Airspeed XXL Automatic Chronograph
Movement:  Swiss automatic
Material:  stainless steel case, leather strap
Complications:  day/date display, chronograph timing in one-second increments up to 12 hours
Price:  street price around $750 USD


Plenty of photos follow the review.  Click on the pictures to enlarge.

At long last, here’s my review of my brand spanking new Revue Thommen Airspeed XXL chronograph, reference number 7001.6/16051.6183.  This review was delayed because I purchased the watch on a stainless steel bracelet which I removed and replaced with the strap seen here in the photos.  I wanted to show the watch as I intend to wear it and finding the right strap for this piece took longer than expected.

I owned an original Revue Thommen-made Airspeed chronograph with the much-loved Lemania 5100 movement in it.  That watch was circa late ‘90s in the waning days of Revue Thommen’s watchmaking expertise.  That watch sported an embossed airspeed medical helicopter on the caseback, hence the genesis of the name.  That watch also measured a smallish 38mm in size, to give a bit of perspective to the new ‘XXL’ designation.

I am a big fan of the Revue Thommen brand (‘RT’ for short) even though RT watches are now manufactured under license by Grovana of Switzerland, so the entire heritage of RT is not exactly present, but Grovana has enough of their own Swiss heritage to qualify as a legitimate Swiss watchmaker in my opinion. 

This is the third RT watch I have purchased since October of 2010, so I am on a roll.  Each RT I have received has exhibited fine build quality, good accuracy out of the box, unique designs and a cache that you won’t find with just any watch.

I wanted to add a Valjoux 7750-based chronograph to the stable and looked at and considered many 7750-powered watches.  Because many 7750 chronos can get pretty pricey and I wanted to stay as close to $500 USD as possible, my choices were limited.  When this RT Airspeed XXL entered my radar, it was pretty much a done decision, pending my winning the watch on auction.  Slam!  The hammer banged down and I won!  This watch came straight from Germany, brand new, with shipping, coming in just under $500 USD.  Not bad!

Sporting a near perfect size at 40mm without the signed screwdown crown, I’m not exactly sure why they call this one an ‘XXL.’  It really should be an Airspeed medium, or at best, large.  But I’m not complaining, there’s something nifty about a 40mm 7750-based chronograph. 

The all stainless steel case is fully polished and is even nicely finished inside the lugs and on the case sides between the lugs.  I don’t know how many watches (bigger $$$ watches included) that I have seen when the bracelet is removed and poorly finished case sides and/or lugs show their face.  Lugs are 20mm, case thickness is 14mm, standard for a 7750 movement.

The crown is suitably sized, screws down and is signed. The chrono pushers are standard fare, nothing unusual one way or the other.  The screwdown caseback is a display type, showing the venerable Valjoux 7750 movement, sporting an ‘RT’ signed rotor in this application.  Factory water resistance is a modest 5 ATM.

I removed the factory bracelet for a couple of reasons.  First, the RT Fleiger chronograph I recently purchased sported the exact same bracelet, albeit at 22mm instead of 20mm.  I didn’t want that much repetition in my RTs and if there is a weak point in both of these watches, it is the bracelet.   Although the links are solid stainless steel and beautifully polished, the deployant is, you guessed it, stamped steel and not machined, which is a pet peeve of mine.  The end links are also not solid.  So given these factors, I wanted to put the Airspeed XXL on a strap. 

The strap I selected is a Hirsch Vintage Calfskin, available in either black or the medium/dark brown you see here, both with contrast stitching.  I chose the dark brown and with the somewhat distressed style of calfskin this strap sports, it complements the watch perfectly.  The strap ran $35 USD.  The strap measures 20mm at the lugs and tapers to 18mm at the buckle.  Twin keepers (one fixed, one moveable) and moderate padding make this strap a good choice.  The strap varies in thickness from about 3.5mm to 4.5mm, but is flexible enough so as to sit comfortably on the wrist.

The Valjoux 7750 hacks, manual winds and has acquitted itself perfectly under my tutelage.  Power reserve is north of 45-hours and accuracy has been about +9 seconds a day out of the box.  No complaints here.  All chronograph functions are smooth, accurate and chrono reset to zero is crisp, fast and perfect.  Everything we’ve come to expect from the tried and true 7750 engine.  And in case you were wondering, the distinctive 7750 wobble makes its presence known from time to time.  Kind of like that shy but sexy neighbor that smiles at you occasionally from across the street.  You know she’s there, but she doesn’t distract you too often.

The dial on this watch is utter simplicity and a paragon of clean, uncluttered design.  A shade of pure stark white with screened black vintage-style Arabics that are not hacked off anywhere, the dial is all business.  There is also a screened black tachy scale that forms the chapter ring on the dial.  The vintage cathedral-style hands with their long tips are extremely legible, as are the black subdial hands and main chrono second hand. The long tips on the hands also lend an air of fineness to the presentation of the dial.  The hour and minute hands are luminous and there are small lume dots around the perimeter of the dial.  Lume quality is good, as seen in the photo.

Some may think the dial looks cheap or too simple for a watch of this caliber, but it is so clean and easy to read that any air of cheapness is overshadowed by its quality and intended purpose, that is, to accurately and easily convey timekeeping and stopwatch timing to the owner.  That is does in spades.  The subdials are slightly recessed and have a circular patterning to them, but since the dial is white, this design element is hard to spot.

The crystal is flat sapphire with no distortion noted.  I couldn’t detect any anti-reflective coating on the crystal.  The dial and hands exhibited no defects or dirt under an 8X loupe examination.  The movement viewed through the display back also looked clean and well-assembled.

A quickset day (English only) and date are located at the 3 o’clock position.  I like the divider on the dial between the day and date that hides the separate calendar wheels, as this feature gives the watch a more expensive look.  Alignment of both the wheels is perfect in their respective windows.

Presentation was the same as my previously purchased RT watches, outer signed cardboard box, inner padded box with documentation folder and signed polishing cloth.

I have to say here that I have no affiliation with the seller of this watch, but since this is the third RT I have purchased from them, I wanted to make mention of them in a positive light.  They have provided exceptional service, fast shipping and good prices.  This Airspeed XXL was won on auction on a Sunday night, I had the watch in my hands in the U.S. the following Thursday from Germany.  Shipping has been by UPS with complete tracking information.  Brokerage/customs fees have ranged from about $12 to $17 USD for each of the three RTs I have purchased.  The seller is MacArther’s in Hamburg.

Overall, this RT Airspeed XXL chronograph fits my requirements for a no-nonsense, value priced Valjoux 7750-based automatic chrono with true Swiss heritage and build quality.  Ranking high on the value meter, this watch is a pleasure to wear, look at and to use with exclusivity to boot.  Once again, I tip my WIS cap to the house of Grovana/RT for producing a fine piece of horology for the average man with extraordinary tastes!


Pros:  no-nonsense in all respects, clean, readable vintage-inspired dial, Valjoux 7750 movement, good build quality, great price

Cons:  dial may be too simple for some, modest water resistance, no decoration on the movement, cheapish stainless steel bracelet

Verdict:  superb overall value for a Swiss Valjoux 7750 powered chronograph, the guy on the train or in line at Taco Bell won’t be wearing one, great effort and results from RT!


Thanks for reading and enjoy the pics!

Excelsior,

-Marc


Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Review of Pulsar Lume Dial Chronograph

Model # PF8 193

At a Glance:

Brand/Model:  Pulsar Lume Dial Chronograph
Movement:  Japanese quartz
Material:  stainless steel case, leather-backed nylon strap
Complications:  date display, chronograph timing in 1/20th of a second up to 12 hours
Price:  MSRP:  $150 USD; Street price:  $75 USD


 


Plenty of photos follow the review.  Click on the pictures to enlarge.

Every now and then, a watch that doesn’t cost very much really catches my eye and proves to be an unbelievable bargain.  Case in point, this nifty Pulsar lume dial chronograph.  Have you ever cruised a site like Amazon looking for the cheapest price you can find on a particular item?  I do so every now and then with watches and lo and behold, this Pulsar popped up for the almost criminally low price of $38 USD delivered.  Are you kidding me?  That price was too low to resist, so your humble servant had to buy one to check it out.  Turns out to be potentially my best buy of the year, value-wise.

This Pulsar sports an all stainless steel case which is polished, with a brushed bezel and a polished screw down stainless steel case back.  While it is admittedly a bit small at 40.3mm without the crown (42.8mm with crown), this watch still impresses.  It tends to wear small due to the width of the bezel. 

Lugs are 20mm, offering plenty of options for different straps.  Thickness is a comfy 10.4mm.  The crown does not screw down and is unsigned.  The chrono pushers are standard round buttons and have a good feel to them.  The watch is rated at 100 meters water resistance.

The dial and movement are where this little guy gets interesting.  The dial is not only full lume, but is Seiko’s Lumibrite material, so it glows well and glows brightly for a long time with minimal exposure to light (especially sunlight).  A lume dial chronograph is hard to come by and for those who want one, this Pulsar definitely fills the bill.

The hour and minute hand are solid black, so they are easy to see and read against the lume dial.  The subdial hands are black, with the chrono second hand being red.  Arabics are printed in solid black as well.  There’s nothing superfluous about the dial, it’s all business.  The printing on the dial could be a bit crisper, but it’s not a major distraction.  A quickset date window resides at the three o’clock position.  The dial is capped by a flat Hardlex mineral crystal, the same material used on many other Pulsars and Seikos.

As previously mentioned, one thing that delivers strong value with this piece is its movement.  The Japanese quartz chronograph is Seiko’s tried, true and beloved YM92/7T92 caliber, which offers 1/20th second timing up to 12 hours.  What makes this movement cool is two things.  First is the way the top subdial (the 1/20th second indicator) spins super fast as it counts off the time in 1/20th increments.  This will continue up to about 10 minutes, when it stops and sits idle until the chrono is stopped, then it will move to display the appropriate 1/20th of a second time.  This is done to conserve battery power.

The second neat part about this movement is the lower subidal @ 6.  This subdial has two hands, the longer of which displays the minutes for the chronograph, while the shorter hand is the hour indicator.  Upon chrono reset, these hands will spin themselves clockwise to reset themselves to the 12 position.  While it does take a bit of practice to learn how to quickly read the minute indication, since it’s not incremented as minutes on the subdial, this layout does work well and gives this watch 12-hour chrono capability.

The subdial at 9 is the continuously running seconds hand for the watch, while the red second hand is for the chronograph.

Since acquisition, this watch has kept absolutely superb time, running just two seconds slow over about two months, which is outstanding by any measure and especially when the low purchase price is factored in.

When I originally ordered this watch, I was planning on changing out the strap because I’m not overly fond of nylon straps.  When the watch arrived, I was pleasantly surprised with the quality and look of the nylon strap.  Running a continuous length of 20mm from lug to buckle, the strap is lined with leather, rather thick olive drab-ish nylon with white contrast stitching.  the color of the strap adds to the military/field watch nature of its design.  As of now, I am wearing this watch with the stock strap, although it is a tad uncomfortable at times as the nylon can be a bit rough against the skin around the edges.  The strap has two wide keepers (one fixed, one floating) along with a polished stainless steel buckle.

Overall fit and finish on this model is totally acceptable for its price point and exhibits Pulsar’s typical level of quality (read:  good.)

Many times, various Pulsar models will have the same movement as more expensive Seiko models and this Pulsar is a perfect example of this.  I have the same movement in a Seiko (also reviewed on this blog) that cost almost four times as much as the Pulsar.  A Pulsar equipped as such can be an inexpensive way to try out a movement you may be interested in without making a large investment.  It doesn't always work this way, but sometimes, it does.

Presentation was nothing special, but for $38, who’s complaining?  Not me!

Overall, this Pulsar chronograph is a strong little piece with some unique features that you don’t find everyday.  A gem of a watch, especially for the price.
 

Pros:  great Seiko  YM92/7T92 chrono movement, full lume dial, 12-hour chrono timing capability

Cons:  printing on dial could be a bit tighter, smaller size makes chrono hard to read at times, strap can be uncomfortable

Verdict:  great combination of features, total value for small entry price, great grab-and-go piece


Thanks for reading and enjoy the pictures.

Excelsior!

-Marc


Saturday, June 11, 2011

Review of Vostok Amphibian Automatic

Model # 439B

At a Glance:

Brand/Model:  Vostok Amphibian
Movement:  Russian automatic
Material:  stainless steel case and bracelet
Complications:  date display
Price:  street price about $75 USD


Plenty of photos follow the review.  Click on the pictures to enlarge.

Many watch enthusiasts are familiar with the Russian watch brand Vostok (sometimes spelled Bostok, the name means ‘east’ in Russian).  This is at least the fifth Vostok I have owned.  I wanted something funky to add to my rotation and it usually isn’t too hard to find something funky in Vostok’s seemingly endless lineup of models, including many newly released styles that fill the funky bill.

This Vostok Amphibian is a new model and sports a chunky, nifty case style that really attracted me.  The green dial also caught my eye so I pulled the trigger.  Coming straight from Moscow, this puppy is unique and attractive, with the many ‘quaint’ Vostok traits that you either love and/or hate.

The stainless steel case measures about 41mm without the wobbly crown, 44.4mm with the wobbly crown.  The wobbly crown measures 7mm in diameter.  Lug width is 22mm, case thickness is 14.5mm.  The case back is signed, screw down and is stainless steel.  This watch is factory rated at 200 meters water resistance.

Inside beats the venerable Caliber 2416B 31-jewel automatic movement.  This movement can be hand wound through the wobbly crown (an experience unto itself), but does not hack.  The date is also not quickset, something that has always disappointed me with Vostok’s watches.  The date window is located at the 6 o’clock position.

The shade of green on the dial is most appealing, at least to me.  No forest green, mint green or lime green here.  It’s kind of a medium green with almost a metallic flavor, think 1972 Chevy, not 1958 Pobeda.  The dial is ringed in a wreath-like pattern in yellow.  I at first thought this might look a bit frilly, but I actually like the execution.  The yellow trim imparts a sort of rally-look to the dial.

The arabics are printed yellow and the hour markers are Swiss Luminova luminous (the markers look really cool when they glow, sort of like little radiation symbols) but I feel that the quality of the lume is just so-so, not real bright or long lasting, but consistently applied.  The seconds hand is red and is tipped with luminous.  The hour and minute hands are luminous as well and are shaped well and look great, although they could be a tad larger in size; the dial tends to be a bit busy on this model and the hands get lost somewhat at times.

The crystal is standard domed acrylic, so if it scratches, it will be easy to polish up and be ready to accept more abuse.  The bezel is standard-issue non-clicking, omni-directional Vostok, with the standard 20-minute markings on the opposite side of the bezel, leading me to believe they intend it to be used as a countdown timer.

The folded link stainless steel bracelet seems markedly improved over the last bracelet I had on a Vostok Amphibian, but that’s not saying much.  At least they are wrapping the ends of the links, so the folded part doesn’t show.  It’s still a fairly lightweight, rattle-prone design.  The clasp is signed and is double locking,  The bracelet measures 21.5mm at the lugs and tapers to 18mm at the clasp.  The bracelet sized up nicely and since it’s all part of the quaintness of this watch, it will remain in place.

Overall fit and finish on this watch is pretty decent; the stainless steel case shines nicely and the crown screws down fine, although it still is wobbly and the winding action is exactly the same as previous Vostoks.  Being quaint can get tiring after awhile.

If you like Russian watches, you certainly can’t go wrong with a Vostok Amphibian.  Decent water resistance (yes, they truly don’t leak!), a myriad of dial and case styles to choose from and affordability for a rugged automatic makes these watches a good addition to any collection.  I always think any true WIS should sport at least one Russian watch in their collection, and the Vostok Amphibian is a great place to start.

Pros:  nifty dial color and case shape, automatic movement, relatively inexpensive for the feature set, Cyrillic writing looks cool, quaintness in spades

Cons:  wobbly crown that feels like it is about to fall off (it won’t), lume could be better, fairly crappy bracelet, quaintness in spades

Verdict:  ubiquitous Russian watch brand that delivers what you expect in a Russian watch, quaintness, for better or worse

Thanks for reading and enjoy the pics!

Excelsior!

-Marc

UPDATE!

I sold this watch about six months after I bought it.  I couldn’t quite adjust to the yellow markings against the green dial, along with the red second hand against the green dial.  It was a nice piece and proof of Vostok’s value, but this particular model just didn’t end up doing it for me.

-MCV, 6-11-11